Fiji to Indonesia

29 days- 3,486 miles from Fiji to Indonesia. Drama 4 hours outside of Fiji when both the electric autopilot and the Monitor wind vane failed. We were still within Fijian waters so the Fijian Navy allowed us back in to fix both these vital steering systems
Reading The CloudS
Breakage Was Our Constant Companion

Years of “day sailing” might be equal to the amount of wear we had on all the boat’s systems during this 29 day passage

Radar image of Shenemere surround by lightning as we dodged many thunderstorms

We Ate Well- Tuna and Wahoo

Dolphins on the bow…Never Gets Old!
A months worth of laundry if you only wear a sarong :0
Beverley & Clarke Bishop- S/V Our Reflections spent the almost 2 weeks checking in along side us in the Kupang anchorage. Good Fun and laughs as the process to enter crippled along.
Wine, cheese and cheers shared.
Picture taken a few minutes before the customs officer on the left came down below for the inspection and within a few minutes eject-barfed all over the galley. Needless to say it was not a through inspection
All the officials insisted on us having a boat stamp. I designed the stamp logo online and we had one made in the afternoon. They love their stamps here; the Harbor Master had half a dozen official stamps for his 3 pages of documentation

Jimmy was our local go-to-guide for pretty much everything we needed. Kupang was too spread out and the language was a barrier for immigration, phones, stamps and boat repairs etc. Jimmy was always there to watch our dingy and organize what was needed. We took him out to the Triple 9 Club the night before we left to thank him for all his help.

BOAT= Break Out Another Thousand

Indonesia changed the quarantine from 8 days to 3 days however, it still took us 12 days to get completely checked-in. Two PCR tests, Health, Quarantine, Immigration, Customs & Harbor Master officials all work independently. Pre-Covid it cost about $200 to check into Indonesia now it costs about $2000.

First Impressions & Highlights of Our Brief Visit to Kupang
Kupang, Indonesia

We quickly filled up with fuel/ propane, provisioned with veggies and had the Monitor wind vane welded before we set sail to Roti.

Makogai Island is known for its Giant Clams
David and Martin showed the local kids how to fly the drones

We enjoyed visiting with the kids on Makogai. The kids were keen to fly the drone and showed me their homemade “blow dart guns” (pvc pipe with corked steel darts) they basically shot-to- kill anything on the island with trained proficiency.

Beachcombing at it’s best

Beach Daze

“Our new normal” is having to burn our rubbish just like the locals. No garbage collected and the “garbage dumps” on the main islands are just large fires to throw your garbage on. So now we take the trash to the beach and burn it. Rik and Saunne from SV Incentive joined us for our rubbish burn, beach combing, kayaking/SUP and snorkeling adventures on Makogai.

First stop at the top of the Yasawa Group: Sawi-i-Lau

Sawi-i-Lau is the odd limestone island amid a string of high volcanic islands. We came here to explore the caves but, we weren’t received by any locals and we didn’t want to approach the village uninvited so we had to explore on our own. On the way to Sawi-i-Lau we sailed into a large pod of Pilot Whales with their babies.

Hopefully this is the end to our dry fishing patch…David was great at filleting
Nanuya Lailai- home to the celebrity of all the Yasawa’s beaches,
the Blue Lagoon

Beautiful Blue Lagoon where Brooke Shields gave fame to this crystalline and glossy beach in the movie Blue Lagoon did not disappoint. However, most of the beaches were private resorts (Turtle Island Resort $2,700 per night) and even though there aren’t any guests here due to boarder closures there were security guards protecting most of the beaches.

We met the Aussie owner Ivan that was maintaining the Nanuya Island Resort during the boarder closures by keeping a shop open for the locals & employees to taking care of the property. We were invited to make an order of veggies and he would get together what he could for us. We came back in the afternoon to a huge box of eggplants, bananas, cilantro, tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, oranges and potatoes! We had been down to one cucumber and three carrots so the fresh veggies were a culinary celebration!

Castaway Island with Wilson’s Cousin

Marty Surfs Restaurants with only yachtie’s in the lineup

Seemore’s Meme of Marty’s surfing LOL 🙂 Martin’s mates call him Marty when he surf
Martin highlighted upfront. Super fun session with all the surfers #wildthing #Persuasion #Patches #Seaglub

Vinaka Fiji

Thank you Fiji.

Sincere gratitude to all the wonderful people we met in Fiji. It would be so easy to Stay in Fiji however, this would be our third time here and we are drawn to unchartered waters as the cyclone season is imminent. We have set our sails for Indonesia.

XXOO to all the amazing yachtie’s we met this cruising season. It was an intimate-quickly acquainted community of cruisers, surfers & kayakers. We all seemed to embraced the “Silver Lining” of Covid Cruising/ FIJI BLUE LANES CRUISING. We are grateful to have the unique opportunity to sail through the islands of Fiji and truly appreciate the Fijians for their fortitude. BLUE LANES allowed cruisers to explore Fiji by water while the country remained in various levels of lockdown.

Cheers to all the cruisers we chilled with…fondest memories XO #Galliant #Brave #Heritage #Patches#Periguine #Incentive #HooDoo #Indigo #India #Wildthing #Sequia #Ibis #FlipFlops #Hallabaloo of Normandy #Seaglub #SpiritofMillenium #Persuasion

Half of our BLUE LANES Flag is left. This flag was our Golden ticket for a remarkable cruising season in Fiji
Martin in the first clip. Todd rocking Resturants Surfbreak #FijiChili drone footage. VINAKA
Representatives from the Fijian Ministry of Health aboard Shenemere to give us the swab 2-days prior to the end of our quarantine

Fiji established Blue Lanes Initiative allowing yachts to explore the islands while following strict safety guidelines including quarantine upon arrival, covid tests, AIS tracking by the Fijian Navy and weekly itinerary updates. Once we received approval and were granted a cruising permit we were also issued a Blue Lanes approved burgee flag that is an assurance to locals that our vessel does not pose a threat.

Fiji is aggressively vaccinating its population in an effort to control the spread of Covid on the main island of Viti Levu. In our case we arrived and quarantined on Vanua Levu and sailed to the Lau Group; all the areas we have visited remain Covid free at present. (Mid-August ’21)

Llil -Steve’s crew from NZ to Fiji on Destiny is in Fiji to teach women empowerment skills so she has access to the people in the villages (we are to limit our exposure) and was able to take all the school supplies, glasses, linens and a childrens clothes that Cindi on Zensation and I collected and distribute to the villages on Taveuni.


Once out of Quarantine we only spent a few days at Savusavu- Copra Shed before we hit the road to the Yacht Friendly…

Paradise Resort- Taveuni Island
Paradise Resort, located on the Garden Island of Taveuni, is a scuba divers wet dream
First Ocean swim in over 18 months – warm water and vibrant reef teeming with fish

Paradise Resort is unusual because normally resorts prohibit us yachties from visiting their properties however Allen the owner of Paradise Resort has 8 complimentary moorings and has always allowed yachties to visit his resort. He said the guests are are simply fascinated by the “sail guests” and the dynamics of the guests interacting makes it unique. This turned out to be a win-win for the resort during the lockdown as no tourist have been allowed to fly into Fiji however, the Blue Lanes Initiative has allowed yachties to safely cruise the islands. Allen said the “sail guests” have allowed him to keep the resort open, maintaining a few staff to prepare the meals and maintain the grounds has benefitted the local economy and kept the jungle from overtaking the property.

Allen still maintains the dive boat and takes visitors to the spectacular local dive spots: Orgasm (Vuna Reef), The Great White Wall (Rainbow Reef) and The Zoo. They have bakery on site and provide fresh veggies and eggs…really what else could a yachtie ask for! Meat; and what do you know the local butcher closed down his business after his workers refused to get vaccinated so instead of enduring the government fines for unvaccinated workers he just sells fresh meat directly to Allen who sells us the fresh cuts of beef. The butcher tosses the fresh carcass on the beach with the pools of blood attracting a plethora of shark species…large shark fins can be seen swarming. Apparently when he was in business it was advised Not to swim on Tuesdays and Thursdays however now he is on his own I am a bit concerned that we don’t have his “slaughter day” schedule!

Paradise Resort

Llil and some of the local kids came for a visit onboard

We had a fun afternoon hanging out with the local kids which I was surprised to hear hadn’t ever been invited on a boat before.

Bumpy yet scenic local bus ride to the Waitavala water slide– a natural rock slide not for the faint of heart. Martin took the plunge!
***Kenny Rodgers is a Fijian Favorite. I don’t think I have ever been on a bus in Fiji that didn’t have Kenny blaring and why not 🙂

FULAGA- Southern Lau

A very narrow reef pass to enter into the lagoon
Weather was just right! Off to the Southern Lau Group- Fulaga– popularly known as “Vulaga

The 24 hour sail from Paradise to Fulaga was uneventful. We arrived in the morning to eyeball navigate our way through the narrow pass and the coral reefs within the lagoon. Anchored safe and secure in this spectacular lagoon. The village chief requested that the yachts in the lagoon consolidate all of our cruising permits and kava on one boat to minimize social contact. S/V Brave was nominated and on our behalf took part in the significant and ancient sevusevu ceremony that is performed by the Chief for us visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village. However, due to Covid restrictions we were asked to limit our contact with the villagers and not go to the village.

We met a local from the village; Alfereti while he was out in his kayak and in the course of our conversation he invited us to visit his land where he showed us and a few other yachties an ancient burial site and his vegetable garden. We all cooled down with some refreshing coconut water.

Sail, kayak, drone and exploring Vulaga
Full house of eager students (from 4 separate boats) on Shenemere for an afternoon of epoxy jewelry making

Next stop in the Southern Lau Group- Ogea

Another beautiful reef protected island and this time the local village was welcoming to our visit onshore. We left early with a group to make the hike to the village. We met with the Chief- Matu Tabu i Tui Nayau to present our gift of kava for the traditional sevusevu ceremony. At the Chief’s house we sat on a mat while he blessed our visit to his village and invited us to look at his beautifully carved bowls and traditional masks. The people of Ogea are known for their carefree and happy approach to life; this was evident in the village we visited. We were invited to sit with a local family and drink coconut after coconut of naturally hydrating goodness after a long hot walk. We learned a lot about their village and the challenges they have had to deal with. Mostly life sustained on food they grow and fish they catch remains unchanged.

Ogea & Matuatabu Village

Vanua Balavu- Little Bay with Big Adventures

Little Bay

Our first stop at Vanua Balavu was the main “town” of Lomaloma. The Chief, Nurse and a Policeman came out on a longboat to greet us and requested our cruising permit and immunization records. In the most friendly way we were asked to please not visit the village and after we presented our gift of kava to the Chief we were permitted to cruise the many bays of the island.

Just a few hours around the corner we tucked into the cutest “Little Bay” ever!

Little Bay

Martin rescues local Fijian man in his sinking kayak

Early in the morning Martin hears a call for help from a local who is taking on water in his fishing kayak.

Martin gladly helps tow Tui up the river to his house

Tui was grateful for Martin’s help and invited us to come back at hightide for a visit to his farm. We grabbed the crew from S/V Brave and headed back up the river later in the morning. Tui lives on a sizable piece of property that he manages to farm and raise pigs. He uses his horse Daisy to help collect the massive amounts of coconuts he needs to feed the pigs everyday and calls the pigs from the fields using his conch shell. We really wanted to see all the pigs come running to his conch shell blows however, at 4:30 AM the tide was too low to make it back up the river. Tui and his doggie Devil were a jolly pair and he even had the kids take turns riding his horse Daisy.

In 2016 Tui lost his house in Tropical Cyclone Winston that ravaged Fiji and Tonga. This house was delivered as a pallet of materials via helicopter from the New Zealand Government and was built with the help of volunteers in less than 2 weeks. It is a strong yet simple house that Tui was very proud to show us.

Martin and Dave took another look at Tui’s kayak and figured out a way with some boating epoxy and parts they could repair the hole. Later that day they went back to the farm with the needed supplies and helped fix the kayak.
Next Anchorages on Vanua Balavu- Plantation Bay

We waited out a few days of strong winds and bad weather tucked right up and in this secure bay with our mates on Brave. On the third day the organizer of the Bula Rally showed up to open the yacht club so we met a few other yachties as the boats started to arrive for the upcoming Lovo Feast. The lovo is basically a feast of chicken, fish, pork, sheep, taro, yams, cassava etc. that is wrapped in banana leaves and placed on hot stones underground; the bounty is then covered with more banana leaves & coconut stalks and left to cook for several hours. The food was copious and the company of sailors delightful.

Plantation Bay’s various anchorages, hikes, kayaking and Yacht Club was a perfect venue for the lovo feast

Bay of Islands- Dangerously Beautiful

David has joined the crew of Shenemere as he works on getting the next passage back to his Lagoon Catamaran that has been stuck in New Zealand.

David joined our crew while he is working on getting a crewed position back to New Zealand to sort out his Lagoon Catamaran that he has not been able to visit in over 18 months. David had been helping a Kiwi single- handed captain Theo on his boat Heritage for the last few months. So when the 4:00 AM hail on the radio ” Calling all vessels * Calling all vessels* Sailing vessel Heritage* Do you copy ” David jumped on the VHF. Between spotty WIFI and VHF communications we found out that Theo had been waiting off the pass entrance for the morning light when he lost his steering and ran his boat hard aground on a reef.

We went to Theo’s aid as soon as the sun was up and found him hard on the reef however in a better situation as he was somewhat protected by an outcrop of land. This bit of protection was his savings grace as the winds had picked up and the conditions turned blustery. David got in our dingy and went to Heritage as the approach was too dangerous for us on Shenemere. After a few hours of Heritage slamming hard onto the reef; with engines throttled forward and sails up… the tide came up just enough to propel Heritage in a few halty fits up and over the reef to safety.

Safely back at anchorage Theo came over to thank us for help rendered (we really didn’t do anything but in our community moral support is valued) with a few cold beers, can of lamb mutton and cash for the diesel. His steering cable is broken and he will need to use the cumbersome emergency tiller to get to a port that has parts. There is damage to his rudder but the full keel and hull seem to be OK. He will head to SavuSavu to fix the steering then onto Denarau to haul the boat out.

Here is some footage of this classic ketch- S/V Heritage in the Bay of Islands

Bay of Islands- Sailing Vessel Heritage Safely Underway

Priceless surf anchorage- Taveuni off of Qamea Islands

We rounded the corner from Maqai and Martin was pumped…the surf was up and S/V Manuavi was anchored just off the reef so we knew the surfing was on. We anchored next to them and shot over to get the surf report. Happy to hear that Adam, Rachel, Josh, Iwana and Leah all were wiped out after two solid days of great surfing; sadly for Martin the wind was picking up and conditions were deteriorating.

He did get this amazing drone footage of our anchorage for the night just off the reef. It was pretty special going to sleep with the roar of the waves and the gentle roll of the swell.

Anchoring just off the surf break at Qamea Island
We are officially Grandparents and we are over the moon!
Sarah and Justin welcomed into the world River Hendrix Koning

August 5th 2021 * 8lbs 10oz Healthy Baby Boy

River Hendrix Koning


New Zealand has been a wonderful host to us over the last 19 months. I truly believe we won the Covid country lottery. The hospitality of the Kiwis, several auto-immigration extensions and the fast and hard lockdown that allowed us to live mostly unaffected by the global pandemic was remarkable. Usually we would have been here only to sit out a cyclone season and would have missed the exploring we did overland in the van or the fabulous summer sailing and hiking we enjoyed. The best part of this visit to New Zealand was reuniting with all the folks we sailed into New Zealand back in 1998…you can’t make new friends like these! Keep in mind these folks sailed and immigrated to NZ so they now live in amazing houses but we still refer to them by their given boat name. Bill and Irene (s/v Faraway) lived just up the road and so accessible to us for a chat, tea, hike, fish, sail or just a place to stay when Shenemere was hauled out. Cruising, hiking and art appreciation with Jenny and Dennis (s/v La Ruche). Fishing and art exploration with Cheryl and Henk (s/v Omega) in BOI’s was priceless. Norge (s/v Irish Mist) made the long journey to visit with us all and even brought his photo albums; what fun we had looking back. Our tribe remained intact after all these years and it’s remarkable the amount we all have in common. Martin and I did a lot of road trips to meet his school mates that have since immigrated to New Zealand. Gavin & Sharon, Martin’s childhood friend was always accommodating our comings and goings through Auckland. We had hilarious adventures with Richard and Marlene Koekemoer. Brian & Felicity Fuller hosted a SA reunion in Cambridge and Brian and Gavin cruised with us in Great Barrier Island. We met a few of Martin’s family that had immigrated to NZ as well; always real to connect with family when you are so far away. What a treat “The Caribbean Tribe Meet-Up” with Byron Pick his wife Stephanie (+2), Jenny Pick and Elizabeth and Garth indulging in an hysterical recollection of events when we were so very much younger sailing carefree in the Caribbean. A fortunate stroke of serendipity my close Kiwi friend Suzie from Miami had since moved back to New Zealand so we we were able to hang out. We had met Kiwi Malcom & Pauleen in Fiji last year and remained in contact with them so whenever we were in each others vicinity (Auckland, Whangarei or Opua ) we got together. Gosh we were incredibly lucky meeting all our ole mates in such a beautiful country and to be insolated in the Covid free bubble that New Zealand’s boarder closure provided, that we were safely and freely able to socialize. However, even though were no cases of Covid there was an economic impact and there were many folks that needed help. The Red Cross of Whangarei helped during this crisis by providing food, resources and support to the people most vulnerable at such a time. I am grateful to have had the opportunity to work with these good people + helping good people. I met some amazing people, made lasting friendships and have an opportunity to continue to volunteer as I travel (stand by…Fiji Red Cross possible opportunities). I was also very fortunate to have met Chef Leman, Shauna, Gaby and Rachel at Affair Catering over the summer. I had such an authentic experience with these amazing women; dang they made me laugh. I value the time we had and consider them my sisters. Probably the best and most unexpected New Zealand experience was being in one place and on a dock for 1 year. Naylene, Sharon and Brian @ Town Basin Marina helped us through this newbie experience. We hit it off with Naylene and Phil (Marina Staff and Dock Neighbor); BBQs, Holiday parties and any excuse to visit their authentic nature paradise @ The Hideout was such a fabulous treat. The highlight of all highlights was to witness their wedding. A real Kiwi Wedding in the bush and an unforgettable wedding party! Naylene’s neighbor Sue was such an inspiration and always a laugh. Sue gave me a traveling hippy skirt that I will cherish forever. I told Sue that I want to be just like her when I grow up and I mean it XO. Sharron and Andre were entertaining and always keen for an impromptu braai. Then there was actual boat work to be done; our haul out was supposed to be a 2 week event however, it went on for many weeks. We were quickly absorbed in the fold of the boatyard ole timers and what fun we all had. Kate & Robert on s/v Sylph along with Michael (40 years fishing on Quo-Vadis) were a regular dinner event that often lasted hours. Wesley on s/v Rose Marie, Liberator, Barking Mad, Ryan, Babs and John on s/v New Zealand Maid all made the challenging boatyard blues into a memorable time. Every Sunday Rob had a generous BBQ in a secret corner of the boatyard were everyone gathered mostly discussing boat projects with cold drinks, delicious BBQ and warm laughs. We were blessed with some amazing dock mates/ “Covid refugees” at the Town Basin Marina to share the day to day living experience with much as you would with your neighbors at home…a “chin wag” in the morning and a sundowner at the end of the day. The Town Basin Marina had a vibrant social schedule of ladies luncheons and weekly socials among other activities that provided us the opportunities to meet all kinds of International sailors. We are so grateful. Our Daughter Adrien sailed the seas with us and weathered the storms and has decided to set her anchor in New Zealand with her partner Donovan. We will miss her dearly, trust her immensely and believe that New Zealand is a great place to live. Our dearest friends Elizabeth & Garth -our buddy boat s/v Irwinish since Miami and decades of collective history between us have decided to stay in New Zealand. I can’t write this without the raw emotion of knowing how much we will miss the frequent belly laughs and familiarity that we have together. “How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard” -Winnie the Pooh. As for Shenemere we have set our horizons on distant ports. Fiji-Indonesia.

We spent the last few weeks in New Zealand back and forth to Auckland to service the life raft and swap out our van for a car Adrien could drive. We caught up with the “original” New Zealand Sailing Fleet of 1998 at Cheryl and Henk’s beautiful home. Grateful that Jenny & Dennis and Norge all took the time out of their busy schedules to come up and see us off. Irene and Bill put on a spectacular Braai for our farewell; a meal that will go down in the history books. The anticipation was killing us; we’d been talking about this final night out for awhile… Elizabeth and Garth treated us to tomahawk steaks at Bad Habits Restaurant. A “few” final good byes to Adrien & Donovan as we waited for a weather window.
Waiting and Waiting for a weather window to sail to Fiji
Winter weather in New Zealand is a constant stream low pressure systems trucking across from Australia
This was the kind of gusts we were getting when we dragged anchor…at night of course!
Behold our new “good night sleep” solution…Rocna anchor
Finally got our weather window

After more than a month and a half of waiting for a decent weather window to head the 1000 miles north to Fiji we had to first navigate the new Covid testing requirements and Fiji’s Blue Lane protocols before we could even make an appointment with New Zealand customs to depart. A massive logistics operation was underway which included an eight hour trip to Auckland on a Sunday in order to receive the results on Monday and get Fijian Government approval to depart on Tuesday. So much for the good old days of picking a safe weather window and setting sail; new protocols make a stressful passage like this one more dangerous. Such is our new reality.


The Fijian Blue Lanes protocols allow the time at sea to go toward the 14 day quarantine requirement. We spent 5 days in the quarantine lagoon which was just the amount of time we needed to rest up, tidy up and fix up. Once out of quarantine we moved to a mooring ball outside the town of SavuSavu on the Island of Vanua Levu which is at present Covid free. However, just a day ago a supply ship was turned around when crew tested positive for Covid; it might be weeks before the next supply ship. We are allowed to walk around town but need to have masks to enter into stores and are required to have the FijiCare Covid Tracing app on. The Fijians are friendly, the weather is hot and the water is warm. We are relieved to be making our way in pursuit of a circumnavigation…one passage at a time. Peace

PART 1: On our way to the Bay of Islands we stopped off at Whangamumu for a few days that turned into a week of fishing, trekking and kayaking
PART 2: Exploring the Bay of Islands we reunited with Henk and Cheryl and finally got Bill and Irene to visit with us onboard Shenemere
Part 3: Exploring Whangaroa by kayak after being rained out and stuck onboard for 3 days
Part 4: Back in the Bay of Islands Gavin came to visit us onboard for Easter weekend and my mate Kate was also keen to get some sailing in on the last long weekend of Summer so off we went…Picnicking! We dropped Gav and Kate off on Sunday and picked up Adrien & Donavan sailing back to BOI’s with just enough time to enjoy Easter dinner on Elizabeth & Garths new boat Nightide
Enjoying some time with Adrien before we leave in May for Fiji

Hauraki Gulf

Waiheke Island in The Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana is a coastal feature of the North Island of New Zealand. It has an area of 4000 km², and lies between the Auckland Region, the Hauraki Plains, the Coromandel Peninsula, and Great Barrier Island. Most of the gulf is part of the Hauraki Gulf Marine Park

Martin surprised me by making reservations at the Casita Miro winery on Waiheke Island. Inspired by the food and wine of Spain and the Mediterranean, Casita Miro specializes in shared plate tapas-style service and amazing wine. The world-renowned restaurant has stunning views overlooking the vineyard below. No detail was lost in the Spanish architecture inspired building. The ambiance provided by this fine dining and wine experience is unmatched.

Gavin rode over from Auckland to Waiheke and took Martin Jet Ski fishing. It is a big thing here in New Zealand

Back to Whangarei to get ready for Naylene and Phil’s Hens Party and Wedding Celebrations

Lauri, Nolene, Kim, Betsy, Sue, Lorela, Liz, Sylvia, Lorela, Naylene & Susan

Beautiful Wedding of two fabulous folks. I enjoyed “interviewing” and putting this little film together for the newly weds.

Summer Time in New Zealand with the kind of Good Ole friends that you just cant make! Love catching up with Elizabeth and Garth for some belly roaring laughs

Kiwi Release

One of the highlights of Backyard Kiwi at Whangarei Heads is the annual kiwi releases. Since 2003 volunteers have supplemented the kiwi population by releasing kiwi to introduce wider genetic variety into the Whangarei Heads area. This was fantastic opportunity for us to see live kiwis in our own backyard! We learned a lot about this amazing flightless bird that has been endangered by rats, stouts, cats and domestic dogs.

They monitor a small sample of the released kiwi with radio transmitters

Adrien & Donovan Celebrate their Partnership Visa

Adrien treated us to a lovely picnic and trek at the waterfalls. Beautiful afternoon to celebrate her Partnership Visa with Donovan that she has anxiously been waiting for 3 months.

It’s a Boy!

Justin and Sarah had a beautiful Gender Reveal Party in Houma, LA with all their friends and family

Ladies Night on Shenemere

Horoscopes, curry, wine & laughs. It’s hard to get lady cruisers together so I appreciate the moments we do and it encourages me to try harder to make it more frequent.

Tsunami Warning

New Zealand issued a tsunami warning Thursday after a Magnitude 8.1 earthquake struck the Kermadec Islands. Because the tremor struck at a relatively shallow depth of 19.4 km, it triggered fears that a tsunami had been generated, prompting tsunami warnings for the parts of the country’s North Island facing the quake’s epicentre.

This was the initial surge. Though a small tsunami was generated, it did not cause much in the way of damage, and the warnings were discontinued after a few hours

May be an image of 1 person and body of water

My terrified FB post as I was sure we were going to perish!
There was 8.1 quake not far from here. Tsunami sirens are wailing and Civil Defense has issued an order to get to higher ground. It’s traveling at a speed of 600 km! We are onboard SHENEMERE at Parua Bay with 70 meters of chain, engine on, battened down, passports in waterproof bag. Life jackets on.🙏🏼 Martin gave our car to a German sailor as she was running up the road … she’s headed to higher ground. We don’t know her![/c

Next Day…all good in the neighborhood. What a fun surprise to run into Bill & Irene at Urqhart’s Bay. We were just at Bill’s big 70th B-day party but didn’t get much of a chance to talk . I like the pace of a one on one conversation in the cockpit at a stunning anchorage.

Heading off to the Bay of Islands as soon as we can get a weather window:)

Radio NZ interviewed us about the creation and upcoming launch of the Cookbook- Appetizers Afloat
Betsy and I at a local cooking class- Radio NZ used this image of us for their on-line feature
A Cookbook Fundraiser for Local Maritime Scholarships…planted as a seed turned into a full time job for many months: Appetizers Afloat
Finally after months of hard work the cookbooks have arrived. Susan, Betsy & Naylene in the marina office celebrating
The Official Book Launch with Food, Music and Book Signings with the Honorable Mayor of Whangarei- Sheryl Mai

How the cookbook happened and how we all got roped into this project is a funny story as my friend Naylene from the Marina Office said to me one morning “Y’all ought to write a cruisers cookbook!” She had mentioned it to me before so as I left the office I bumped into Betsy and asked her what she thought. Betsy is a keen organizer of all things that need to get done so we set a date at the local cafe to discuss. Immediately we decided the cookbook would be a fundraiser to give back to the Whangarei community that has given us so much during the Covid Pandemic of 2020. Next we organized the yachtie’s to contribute their local expertise as well as recipes. We acquired backing from the Town Basin Marina Trust and hustled up some advertising dollars. We sourced a professional editor/ printing company and finally after months of reviews, edits and collaboration we produced, launched and sold most of the books. All the proceeds have been donated to the Black Ball Yacht Club to provide scholarships to students in the maritime industry.

Haul-Out for a “quick” bottom job at Dockland 5…and 7 weeks later!

What started out as a quick haul-out / bottom job turned into 7 weeks on the hard at Dockland 5. Osmosis/ blisters was a daily job to tackle. We pulled the rudder off and re-bedded the shaft. Martin went McYver on the rudder and poured epoxy down the shaft while sucking the epoxy to the bottom of the rudder with a vacuum cleaner and it worked! Everyone was so supportive; we had daily visits from fellow yachtsman which means so much as nobody likes to visit a dirty boatyard. The expert advise from our mates Eric, Phil, Garth, Bill, Jason and Travis was priceless. Along with our “neighboring boats” that were hard at work as well…we all became close in a short period of time.

Happy Dance- Shenemere getting ready to Splash!
Dockland 5 Boatyard has a secret “Castle Corner” …shhhh

In the corner of the boatyard is a “secret shed” that is hiding a fridge filled with cold drinks…some of these boat owners have been here too long! Great Sunday BBQ’s with all the regulars in the yard. We met some awesome folks during our time at Dockland 5 making the days hard work kind of but not really fade away.

FRINGE FESTIVAL – Largest Open Access Art Festival in NZ
Kate Shanghaied me to Sing Sea Shanties and more…
Took our sea shanty “choir” public
Funky parade around the loop was lol
I had a bit in the band with a tambourine
Marsden Cove Craft Market
Monica s/v Monny Penny, Cini s/v Zensation and me at the Marsden Cove Craft Market selling our wares. Great day with the ladies as we are getting more experienced with our displays and product presentation
Sailing Creations on display
Splashed and away we went to Urquharts Bay
Orcas hunting in the bay
Good fishing off the boat
Parua Bay
Kayaking with Lisa s/v Harlaquin
Caught 3 sharks in one morning, no swimming here
Gavin came for a visit and got lucky
Off to Great Barrier Island for December- January “Summer” Holidays
(here in NZ they are taking their Summer break for most of December and part of January)
Great Barrier Island had a lot going on over Christmas and New Years and so did Shenemere! Gavin came onboard for some fishing when we dropped Gav off we picked up Brian for some more fishing, kayaking, trekking and sailing adventures.
Happy times getting together with Jenny & Dennis at Kawau Island

Fantastic hike / adventure with our old friends (22 years) on Kawau Island …looks so much like Canada in the Summer

We were interviewed for “another” special Interest piece in the Newspaper….

Road Trip to Beachlands and then to Cambridge

Martin getting to visit with the mates he grew up with in South Africa; Brian & Felicity Fuller, Richard & Marlene Koekemoer and Gavin Nel. From Beachlands to Cambridge and back to Whangarei over the weekend…total blast!

Mt. Manaia Hike

Great afternoon hike with Bill and Irene. Standing at 420 metres, the summit has outstanding views of the Marsden Point Oil Refinery, Bream Bay and the Hauraki Gulf to the south, Whangarei Harbour to the west and the Poor Knights Islands and Northland coast to the north.

Once-in-500 year- Storm

Downtown streets flooded
BP Gas Station underwater
Fri. July 17th 8:58 PM
A unexpected storm system hit us on July 17th with an estimated 8+ inches of rain in 24 hours. It was a wild evening as the river crest at high tide creating a raging 5 knot flow of water and debris. The river with rapids and large logs, lawn furniture/ debris not excluding livestock bumped and scraped the hull of Shenemere throughout the night
The following morning we were able to assess the damage. Many roads were washed away or cut off by flooding and the town’s city center had been flooded

A lot of the local hikes have been closed for repairs however, we still enjoyed exploring particularly as we are going into Spring and things are starting to warm up

Enjoyed a Saturday hike to Whanagrei Falls with Cindi and Ian Smith on s/v Ocean Reach

Martin and Bill took the day off to go fishing and Martin landed the biggest snapper ever caught on Bill’s boat
Spring has Sprung
So grateful to have some quality time with the ladies at Naylene’s farm. Seeing all the cute new lambs was neat but holding a 12 day old baby lamb was pricesless.
Naylene, Betsy, me, Lauri and Tiny
Cooking Classes
If nothing else Covid has forced a lot of us to expand our horizons and try and do things that we would have never have done prior to the pandemic. Volunteering, dance, aqua-fit, singing groups and Cooking!
It all started when Julie on S/V Stray Cat wanted to learn how to make Chinese dumplings…the venue was secured, the invites sent and the Chefs organized. A super fun kind of laugh out loud, hands on afternoon of cooking!
Tuesday night “themed” happy hours have been the mainstay of the stranded sailors in Whanagarei

Hawaiian Luau, Taco Tuesday & Octoberfest are just a few of the themes…
no one really needs an excuse to get dressed up, eat & drink

Local cruisers at the Tuesday HH at the Barge Inn on the water

Great way to meet new people in our community
Monday nights helping the Red Cross feed the local homeless and hungry
Phil & Naylene’s Goat Roast
It finally has started to warm up so Phil and Naylene had a few of us up to the farm to enjoy a goat roast. Super chill day spent hiking and enjoying the wonderful folks we have met here and the beautiful landscapes
The cruising gang: Annie & Leum, Sylvia & Tom, John & Lorola, Elizabeth & Matt, Betsy & Kenny, Kathy & Dave, Rikka & Toumoa, Lauri & Chuck, Martin and Ellen, Vandy, David, Naylene and Phil
Riverside Drive Marina Music & Food Festival

An afternoon packed with back to back performances by the yachties and Elizabeth, Cindi, Lauri and I sold our handmade jewelry and cozies for charity. We are going into Summer here; a lot of the boats will be setting sail in the upcoming weeks. Still borders are closed but the summer here in NZ is stunning and there are fantastic bays to explore; it is ripe to sail away…around New Zealand

This party was the Grand Finale of celebrations for all the sailors from the “Class of 2020” stuck in Whangarei for a year. Muddling our way through these uncertain times, creating bonds that will be valued for a lifetime. Great time had by all!

Shenemere was hauled out of the water on Sept 25th with an expected 2 week ETA to splash.
Spoiler alert…hopefully we splash in October; more to follow!

June 9, 2020 New Zealand moved to alert level 1- and will return to “mostly” normal lives

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First stop after Lockdown; up to Bill and Irene’s house.  Richard and Marlene came to town and Derrick was still stranded in New Zealand. Hazardous rain/stormy night driving on a hilly road when we got stuck in the mud on a steep incline and Bill had to tow our van out of the mud. We arrived at Irene’s doorstep drenched and Richard was sprayed from head to toe with mud. She gave us clean clothes while she washed our clothes and we proceeded to have a magical night with a great group of friends

Next stop…Naylene and Phil’s place for a cozy sleep over (Binky and Tiny too)

Finally made it out to Helene Bay Café and Art Gallery. Gorgeous bay view, delicious food and a stunning art gallery and nature stroll just 35 minutes from Whangarei

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These are the folks on the “catarman dock” celebrating New Zealand moving to Level 1. These boats managed to stay confined within their dock’s “Bubble Buddies” for the lockdown period. Lifetime bonds and a very unique experience for them all

These are pictures of Owha the Leopard Seal. These pictures were from 2017 however Owha has been spotted around the Marina again recently. Martin got the fright of his life walking on the dock at night, he shone his flashlight right at her while she was busy eating a eel. I heard Martin scream and rushed out but she was already gone.

Owha is an Apex Predator…while she was in the vicinity she managed to attack one dingy and it was reported that she sunk an inflatable in Auckland

Thursday Ladies Luncheons resumed when we moved back to level 1. A great way to meet interesting ladies from the surrounding marinas and explore different foods…Thai, Israeli and Middle Eastern restaurants  IMG_7981 (2)

Girls weekend at Naylene’s with a great group of ladies hiking, knitting, food, hot tub and lots of wine…

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Ellen made this sweet video of our girls weekend at “Naylene’s Nuthouse”





Justin was on a job in the swamps of Louisiana for the entire “stay at home” order. Heavy lifting and a dirty job but grateful to be busy when the oil industry was tanking









Finally got to have a girls day with Adrien at the fresh and tasty Fat Camel Israeli Restaurant. Adrien spent the 60 day lockdown at her rented house with James and Brawnie so, we didnt see her the whole time even though she was only 10 minutes away!


jenny and Dennis

What a Great Day! Jenny and Dennis drove up from Auckland to spend the day with us and Bill and Irene swung by for a visit.

We had all met 20 years ago when we crossed the South Pacific on our much smaller boats. “not a beat was missed” the beauty of catching up with old friends… Priceless!





Trip to Auckland to pick-up the Anchor Windlass would not be complete without a stop at the South African Biltong shop

We have now decided we are going to make our own homemade South African Beef Jerky onboard…standby 🙂


Winter Solstice celebration was organized by the yachties. The always entertaining Mayor of Whangarei joined in for dancing with the Riverside Drive Marina Band, blessing of the fleet that included live cannon fire and a heaping of gratitude from the visiting yachts stranded in New Zealand for the year.

Yachties making the news for all the right reasons and in…

Sailing World Magazine- Yachties Make Headline for the “Sailstice Event” we hosted!

Belly Dancing Classes! Yep a growing troop of women are joining in on the fun



A group of sailors have formed the Riverside Drive Marina Band: RDM Band… a favorite at the events and an interesting assembly of unique talent and characters IMG_8019  Be Kind




March 24, 2020 New Zealand prepares to go into a month long lockdown to reduce the spread of Covid-19

Alert Level 4:

  • People instructed to stay at home
  • Travel is severely limited
  • All gatherings cancelled and all public venues closed
  • Businesses closed except for essential services
  • Educational facilities closed
  • Rationing of supplies and requisitioning of facilities possible
  • Reprioritisation of healthcare services

I dusted off my day planner and took notes on our daily progress as we prepared to hunker down on a 51ft / 15m boat. A small space to self-isolate with 2 people so I thought I would try to chronicle the time spent so we can share our bit of history.
Day 1: “In shock, trying to get my head around staying on board for 4 weeks as we are only allowed limited trips to the grocery store and walks…everything else is closed”
Living on a boat we always have a list of things to do so I got busy then soon found out that I really wasn’t that motivated to do much of anything so some days just got lost; reading or on social media. I immediately lowered my expectations of being super productive but, managed to try some new things too.

 Variety of ideas to kill time some more successful than others

Organized all the spices, experimented with jams and pickling. Apple pear jam (yes) Pickling in salt (no) 


Made fruit Beer that fermented too long and turned into wine

Martin and I took long hikes daily and ended up logging 68.2 miles/ 109 kilometers

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I love yoga but since we have been on the dock just below a very popular café (always packed with people on the patio) I am too self conscious to practice on the deck.

During lock down I was able to get some sweet outdoor yoga in… much needed stretching and healthy breathing to reduce stress

Got crafty with this bowl I found in the marina’s treasure box; epoxied the rim with paua shell inlay

More crafting 🙂 decorated wineglass base and more unique jewlery creations

As I was making yet another piece of jewelry with nowhere to sell it; I decided to finally set-up an on-line store. Easier said than done. A tedious week creating the website only to struggle with how to take a professional photo of the products. A great learning experience. Still under construction but, making daily progress. Actually could have used another week of lockdown.

Martin spent hours sewing: a sail bag, winch covers and repaired the dingy cover

I spent a lot of time researching places we want to go when the islands open back up. I was able to create a document that shows details of hundreds of anchorages from Vanautu, Papa New Guinea and Indonesia. It was fun at first to research the exotic ports of call, but it became somewhat depressing as the realization sunk in that things weren’t going to be opening up for cruisers any time soon. I will be ready when they do.

Some other random things that I did that wouldn’t have happened otherwise:

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Blinkist: Get insights from top nonfiction in 15 minutes. I really like the idea of listening to a condensed audio on a complex subject. I can listen to crucial insights from leading thinkers from an app on my phone.
Meteorology: I have a keen interest in the weather and there were a lot of free meteorology classes being offered on-line so, I took advantage and enrolled in a few classes.
Boat Manual: I started to make a manual for all the important boat systems to include the engine, batteries, water maker etc. everything in one document and easy to follow.

From Alert Level 4 to Level 2 we ended up spending 50 days onboard Shenemere

I learned that self-isolation is kind of in a sailor’s DNA. We are probably more comfortable with long “passages” of time without interacting with people.
We are a social group within the sailing community so, even though there was not the regular Wed. and Fri. Happy Hours there was the virtual Zoom Happy Hour. We had our morning roll call on the Net that provided us daily updates and there was the highly active FB Group “Whangarei Lockdown Liveaboard”. We were able to visit our neighbors from the deck to dock chats, but it did not replace the cozy cockpit conversations we are used to.

I heard repeatedly from sailors in our community that we are Grateful to be riding out the pandemic in a progressive, safe, and politically sensible country. New Zealand was able to swiftly shut the country down and there are no new cases of Covid.
Meanwhile, in the South Pacific there are an estimated 500 boats that are in the Pacific with the intention to explore all the exotic destinations we were privileged to do last year and now they are in limbo and struggling with ever shifting immigration laws. Soon these boats will have to worry about what countries will give them refuge in the forthcoming cyclone season.
We are going along with our plans to haul the boat out and do the bottom, replace the windlass etc. just in case Fiji and the Marshall Islands open for us. However, we are getting our head around the fact that the Pacific islands will not be opening their borders to cruisers and we will be spending a Winter in New Zealand. We have a new heater and have started to put on layers of clothes. There are worse places to be and again we are extremely grateful to be here.


The sun always shines after a storm

We celebrated our 2 year anniversary of cruising while in lockdown. This gave me time to review footage from the Drone, Go Pro and Nikon and put all the highlights together in a short clip…Enjoy!



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